I would agree it sounds like a fuel problem.
Cleaning the carbs would be a good place to start.
If the sled has the magnet type saftey switches on the carbs , they
can cause the ignition to cut out, if the magnets brake loose. Check that when you have the carbs apart. You may want to try bypassing your safety switches,
and give it a BRIEF test ride to see how it runs.
Need help
Clutches were cleaned and adjusted last season by the dealer. How do I bypass the magnets on the sides of the carbs? They are held on by a bracket and two screws. Is there a way of testing them?
I have both carbs off and one was completely apart last night and back together, I should be able to finish the other tonight. I will also be replacing the vacuum line for the fuel pump. With the carbs off I had more room to look in there and it is cut half way thru the wall, but still viable.
Thanks.
I have both carbs off and one was completely apart last night and back together, I should be able to finish the other tonight. I will also be replacing the vacuum line for the fuel pump. With the carbs off I had more room to look in there and it is cut half way thru the wall, but still viable.
Thanks.
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- Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:18 pm
Safety switches
You can bypass them by unhooking the plug down by each switch.
Them jump the wires on the plug (harness side ,not switch side of plug)
Do this on both carbs.
We used to adjust those switches all the way up
on the carbs.
Also check to be sure the magnets in the slides are not loose
Good luck
T.C.

Them jump the wires on the plug (harness side ,not switch side of plug)
Do this on both carbs.
We used to adjust those switches all the way up
on the carbs.
Also check to be sure the magnets in the slides are not loose
Good luck
T.C.


update
Well, the carbs have been off and cleaned. No better, after the cleaning.
So next I adjusted the switches all the way up and now the cutting out was between 5 and 6K rpm. So next I jsut unpluged the carb switches and it runs like it should. Plug them back in and same problem. So, do I need to create a loop or, can I just leave the plug disconected?
Thanks.
Jeff
Thanks.
Jeff
If you leave them off you are overiding the TORS (throttle over ride system), which is designed to send your engine into limp mode should one or both of your carbs/cables/thumb throttle be stuck open.
If you leave it disconnected, be sure to check your throttle each time before starting your sled to make sure it operates correctly.Ice is usually the main cause of stuck throttles.
If you leave it disconnected, be sure to check your throttle each time before starting your sled to make sure it operates correctly.Ice is usually the main cause of stuck throttles.
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- Posts: 352
- Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:18 pm
switches
Bypassing them will not cause any other problems, unless your throttle cable
or carb slides are sticking. The switches can be checked with an ohm meter
remember they work with the little round magnets in the middle of the
carb slides. Those switches always caused problems, some people
left them bypassed. But thats yor call.
When you think about it ,when was the last time you heard of a stuck throttle
cable on a MODERN snowmobile?;)
T.C.
or carb slides are sticking. The switches can be checked with an ohm meter
remember they work with the little round magnets in the middle of the
carb slides. Those switches always caused problems, some people
left them bypassed. But thats yor call.
When you think about it ,when was the last time you heard of a stuck throttle
cable on a MODERN snowmobile?;)
T.C.
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- Posts: 352
- Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:18 pm
Safety switches
I remembered, that older cats were ground to run (hooked up to run)
Then around 1998 or so , and on, open to run (unhooked to run)
Then around 1998 or so , and on, open to run (unhooked to run)