100 Mile Snow Safari Forum

Its your timing on the spark. When the motor was switched they never alingned the timing causing it to spark at the wrong time witch will not allow it to fire. If it would fire you could have some bigger issues. You have to find out how to play with the timing on that engine(I am no help with you on that one). I know that it can get tricky messing with that but have fun.

Anybody wanna buy this machine from me?

Updates-
Cylinders are dead even at 120 psi compression. I'm not eating my shirt as previously stated- 120 is more than enough. I am surprised that it's not higher than 120 though- the motor feels as tight or moreso than my other 800, which was measured at 140 or 145 late last season.
Swapped the MPEM off my other '02 800 (both equipped with DPM)- no change.
I reassembled everything this morning, gave it a drink again and I DID get it to sputter/hiccup/cough. I kept trying that several times (using both MPEMs) and each time I could get it to spit just a little bit, but it simply wouldn't catch and take off. In the process the dang thing busted the recoil pawl, so now I'm at a standstill until I find a replacement on ebay. The one on the machine is the more square type pawl, but some of the ebay listings say the updated style with a more rounded pawl will also fit and work- does anybody know this to be true for sure? EX: [url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 418&rd=1,1[/url]
The good thing about this is that while I'm inside the recoil cover, I can pull the stator cover and get some resistance measurements and make sure nothing is busted apart inside. In that vicinity should be the ignition pickup (trigger) for visual inspection and resistance measurement.

I talked with the APS service manager this morning for a bit- he confirmed that even if the DESS/MPEM are mismatched the engine should still start and run (that explains why I was getting spark), but the MPEM will prevent operation above 3000 rpm until proper DESS key is situated.

Last night I was trying to determine how close to TDC the igntion was sparking the plugs- which is kind of an impossible feat for one person. But as far as I could tell it looked like it was where it should have been. One of my next steps is going to be painting marks on the inner clutch sheave when the pistons are at TDC, then I'll clip a timing light over the plug wires and and see where the marks are when it's cranked over at speed. That being said, there still is NO provision for making any sort of adjustment- the ignition is completely triggered, controlled, and operated electronically. Therefore there is no possibility of incorrect procedure when swapping motors or putting a new top end kit in- they're unrelated. What scares me is the thought of the crankshaft being twisted and THAT causing advanced or (more likely) retarded timing. You'd think if the crank was twisted there would probably be some issues with pulling it thru nice and easy, or that it would make uneven sounds with the alternating cycles of the pistons. It sounds and feels perfectly normal.

If the stator/ign pickup components measure ok, I am going to (remorsefully) swap the ignition coil out of my other 800 on a final whim. After that, I don't know what else to do. APS charges $100/hr (:eek:) for diagnostic time, and they ask for an initial 2 hours of diagnosis with no guarantee they'll find the problem. I hate the idea of farming the work out to somebody else- that was the whole reason I bought this thing..... to keep expenses down.

My shoulders are killin me- remind me never to buy a big-displacement twin again- at least not one without electric start. Also remind me that a killer deal on a "not running at the moment" machine is probably too good to be true. Even tho I'd like to ride this machine for this season, I'll be glad to get rid of it next year. :sick:

I like projects! Id almost trade you my 98 mxz...

[QUOTE=kuczala_21;365]I like projects! Id almost trade you my 98 mxz...[/QUOTE]

Tempting..... how many miles are on it, and what kind of mods have you done? I might take you up, altho I'd probably have to request some additional monetary contribution considering the difference in value between these machines. 02 X800 package currently runs 3930-5170 (nadaguides.com) or 4360 (kbb.com).....:thumbup:

In fact, if anybody wants to take this machine off my hands, I would let it go right now for about 3200. It is kinda roughed up a little, mostly cosmetic. I'm sure once it's running it'll provide lots of thrills. Anybody...... anybody? :thumbup: :thumbup: :redgrin:

Wellp, I'm gonna pull the motor.:thumbdown:
I don't know what kind of cobblejob was done when somebody reassembled this thing, and I'll feel more confident if I start from the bottom up. One of my uncles theorizes that the center seals on the crank may be compromised, which makes sense.
This will give me a chance to clean everything up real good and start out "fresh", as it were. This machine was absolutely filthy- I can't believe people let high dollar toys like this get away on them. Not only can I clean it up proper, several components will be easier to get at/test if the powerplant is temporarily nonresident.
Nowthen.... can anybody give me any tricks to make removal a little easier? I'd like to know what numbskull engineer designed the coolant hose between the reedvalve housings- that should be fun to try to remove/reattach.

Here's a stupid question- who's of the opinion that I can reuse the existing gaskets since the motor hasn't yet been run after the rebuild? Iffy? Ok to go? Whatcha think?

Personally I would reuse them. The motor hasn't been run yet so it hasn't got hot enough for the gasket to even settle in and seal up right. Just be cautious when removing them to make sure you dont rip them etc

[QUOTE=kuczala_21;403]Personally I would reuse them. The motor hasn't been run yet so it hasn't got hot enough for the gasket to even settle in and seal up right. Just be cautious when removing them to make sure you dont rip them etc[/QUOTE]

That's the direction in which I was leaning as well.:thumbup:
Couple years ago I had to dunk mag side piston in my 583 and upon reassembly the base gasket got pulled slightly out of position. We were about 30 seconds from firing it up when we saw coolant dribbling out of the base of the cylinder.

Here's what I would do:

First, I would take the spark plugs out and put a stick of dinomite in the cylinder. After that I would run the pieces over with a truck. Then pick up the mess and throw them into a fire. And finally, I would slap myself in the face and then go buy an Arctic Cat.:thumbup:

[QUOTE=z-machine;418]Here's what I would do:

First, I would take the spark plugs out and put a stick of dinomite in the cylinder. After that I would run the pieces over with a truck. Then pick up the mess and throw them into a fire. And finally, I would slap myself in the face and then go buy an Arctic Cat.:thumbup:[/QUOTE]

Good call!!!! LOL

If I wanted domestic junk, Polaris and AC would be right up there at the top of the list.

I pulled the motor yesterday and tried to do some preliminary testing of the center seals (without splitting the case apart, etc). Found some more questionable junk in the bottom of the case and attempted to flush it out as good as possible. Before I go as far as a complete and total disassembly, I'm gonna dunk the motor back into the chassis (now that everything is cleaned out nice) and do a little more testing- preliminarily on timing if I can. Though there is no timing adjustment provision, it's possible some damage could have occurred to the flywheel/keyway/triggering mechanism. It'll probably be a week or so before I can post any updates again.

Meantime check out this bellypan- you could eat offa this thing!