Do any kind souls out there have any advice for getting a set of hyfax "un-stuck" from the suspension rails? And before you ask the obvious dumb questions - YES, I did remove the set screws first, loosen the track, and have sprayed plenty of WD-40 beteen the slides and rails. That said, this is my first shot at doing this myself. Incase it matters, this is for a 2011 Nytro. This particular pair of slides has about 1000 miles on them....pretty thin towards the front of the susp. rail, so they're due for replacement before my next ride... and I'm leaving for a trip to Hurley/Mercer in 1 week, with another trip up to Oconto/Forest Co's just a few days after that one, so I really need to get this done - grrr...!
Got about 500+ miles in on this years early, gritty trails over the holidays - not sure if that might have anything to do with my problem.
Thanks in advance for your serious replies only - not looking for anyone's snarky fan-boy "my brand is better than your brand" BS - please save that for somewhere else....
Advice for stuck slides?
If you are pulling them out between the clip openings, grease the old slides up and take a punch and pound the old slide out. Hit the area were the screw comes out in the front. If you have a slide hammer you can put a heavy screw into the back of the slide and then pull the slide out. Don't for get the loosen the track.
I usually pull the suspension out and then pound them off unless I'm out on the trail. It's easier work on a bench and only takes 5-10 minutes to pull the suspension.
Skip, if you get your sled together before the weekend and are going up to Crooked Lake give me a call. Good luck with the slide change
I usually pull the suspension out and then pound them off unless I'm out on the trail. It's easier work on a bench and only takes 5-10 minutes to pull the suspension.
Skip, if you get your sled together before the weekend and are going up to Crooked Lake give me a call. Good luck with the slide change
Thanks for the advice, 'hawk. Yes, it is my intention to pull them out the back through the clip openings. But, in order to get them out an opening in the back, I don't have an opening aligned on the front which would allow me to pound on them from the front (unless I'm misunderstanding your suggestion...) Unfortunately, I don't have a slide hammer, or I'd try that right away! As for removing the suspension - HA! That's well beyond my modest mechanical skills! I've never damaged the suspension that I know of, so I'd be shocked if I have any burrs on the rails causing the stickiness. It's just a tight fit, and I'm guessing I got a bit of grit in there from the snirty trails over the holidays. One way or another, it'll get done.
Next time I plan to be up at the cottage is a weekday trip, Wed. Feb 20th - Fri, Feb22nd with my kid bro and his Indy XC. After that, I'm hoping the conditions last until the first weekend in March for another trip to Crooked Lake. The rest of my February weekends are spoken for.
(BTW - Saw your post about the northern section of Wauk. Co. trails opening - hoping the rest could open after tomorrow's expected snow AND that there is not a major meltdown in the near future. If the stars align, I might be able to sneak in a weeknight ride or two....assuming I can get these damn slides off!)
Next time I plan to be up at the cottage is a weekday trip, Wed. Feb 20th - Fri, Feb22nd with my kid bro and his Indy XC. After that, I'm hoping the conditions last until the first weekend in March for another trip to Crooked Lake. The rest of my February weekends are spoken for.
(BTW - Saw your post about the northern section of Wauk. Co. trails opening - hoping the rest could open after tomorrow's expected snow AND that there is not a major meltdown in the near future. If the stars align, I might be able to sneak in a weeknight ride or two....assuming I can get these damn slides off!)
First, I assume you have the sled tipped on its side just enough to get the back of the track off the garage floor
with support under the handlebar end .
Then work each slide towards the the back like snowhawk described with a punch or large flat head screwdriver and a hammer.
I have a nytro also and if the hyfax has gotten too thin at the front curve, tapping from the hole end won't move the slide because it will flex at the thin spot.
If thats the case, then dig the tool end into the slide in a thicker spot somewhere down the length of the slide and start tapping.
Don't be too concerned with being aligned with the track windows until you get the slide close enough to go through.
You may have to rotate the track a bit and/or get a new bite with your driver.
You might want to cut away a small amount of the track window to get the end of the slide out. Once the slide is out of the track an inch or so I either clamp on a vise grip and pull or if it is still too hard to pull off, get both slides sticking through the windows, tip the sled back up and on a stand to get the track off the floor. Start the sled and put it in reverse, gas it and the track will peel the slides right off.
with support under the handlebar end .
Then work each slide towards the the back like snowhawk described with a punch or large flat head screwdriver and a hammer.
I have a nytro also and if the hyfax has gotten too thin at the front curve, tapping from the hole end won't move the slide because it will flex at the thin spot.
If thats the case, then dig the tool end into the slide in a thicker spot somewhere down the length of the slide and start tapping.
Don't be too concerned with being aligned with the track windows until you get the slide close enough to go through.
You may have to rotate the track a bit and/or get a new bite with your driver.
You might want to cut away a small amount of the track window to get the end of the slide out. Once the slide is out of the track an inch or so I either clamp on a vise grip and pull or if it is still too hard to pull off, get both slides sticking through the windows, tip the sled back up and on a stand to get the track off the floor. Start the sled and put it in reverse, gas it and the track will peel the slides right off.
Good advice, Snoway, and just what I was afraid of! I'm already doing all of those things... I''ve got the track off the floor on my bumper stand, and I've already trimmed the window. I haven't yet tried tapping from the front, but I worry I will get the restult you mentioned, as the slides have gotten pretty thin at the curve of the rail. I've been tapping away at the side with the flathead and a hammer, and every spot I try, I end up driving the srewdriver all the way through. I don't want to damage the rail, so I find a new spot, only to repeat pushing the screwdriver all the way thru the plastic...all without getting any movement out of the slides. I'm half convinced that when I had the dealer replace them mid-winter last year, they glued them on instead of lubing them on!
Skip, did you loosen the track up. I would also tip the sled on its side like snoway suggested to get better leverage. Worst that could happen is to keep breaking the old slides off. One other thought would be to use some ATF oil or a can of Coke and pour some all the way down the joint where the slide and rail met on both sides. We use both of these to get tubes unstuck from a steel riser pipes
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HGtrailboss
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:16 pm
I found liquid dish soap works better than WD40 or oil. Just a suggestion.
Also, a buddy of mine at work says he rotates the track backwards. Get the sides part way out of the windows. Grab the track and rotate it backwards and the slides will peel off the rails. I personally have not tried this yet but he said it works great. Something to try. :shrug:
Also, a buddy of mine at work says he rotates the track backwards. Get the sides part way out of the windows. Grab the track and rotate it backwards and the slides will peel off the rails. I personally have not tried this yet but he said it works great. Something to try. :shrug: